Day 2; Levinsky Market; an incredible lunch; a small art fair

SLL: Randall and I awoke to a bright sun; we are amazed at the brightness of the sun and its warmth.  We sat outside sipping espressos and listening to the early morning hustle and bustle in the streets.

Breakfast was simple, filled with fresh fruit- and incredible dairy- the strawberries wake up your taste buds- the only other strawberries that come close to having as much flavor are Michigan's June strawberries. And the grapefruit and oranges and tangerines are sweet and juicy.  Pomegranates fill the fruit stands.  
I roasted a chicken (an experience to purchase one at the butcher the day before), and cooked black beans. 

Our apartment doesn't have simple things like pepper and salt; so I figured today we would have to find some simple spices. 

Yesterday at the grocery store,  Randall found a lemon infused olive oil and that was perfect to wash over the lovely chicken with lots of garlic and onion. 

And so, the beans cooked with a hot pepper and garlic.  The chicken roasted and we sat and talked until Maura awoke.  Sleep schedules are still off and so we are up during the night, and have a hard time getting up. We get a bit fagged out in the afternoon, but, getting better.

I spoke with Mickey- and we are all set to go up to Ra' anana to visit with the family tomorrow afternoon.  Tonight is the first night of Hanukah and so every shop window has menorahs for sale and people wish each other Hag Sameach- Happy Holiday.

we decided to visit the markets today; we walked down Allenby street to one of the most well known shuks- Shuk Ha Carmel- this is a big market- at the foot of Allenby and King George street- begins at a plaza that opens up to side streets filled with people and tent like structures filled flea market kinds of clothes and stuff.

But further down, south on Allenby Street another 1/4 mile or so, is our favorite market-Levinsky Market- an old one- started by a group of people from Salonika, Greece; their leader, a man named David Florentin (now the name of an old neighborhood called Florentin adjacent to the area). The Levinsky market has fabulous spices and pastries and cheeses and halva.  Each little open store - if you call it a store- is an opening in old buildings on tiny side streets. what a wonderful area.  we wander the streets. I wanted salt and pepper so we wandered into a small shop filled with spices. 

This is an experience. Shelves filled with spices and large bowls filled with couscous of different kinds are out on the counter; spiced nuts and dried fruits and mixes of both with spices also fill the bowls.  The woman behind the counter is serving some men a rice and lentil mix from a crock pot.  She insists Maura, Randall and I take some, and- assures us that it is "lo gluten"  no gluten.  Fantastic. 

 

 

Of course, she sells me all kinds of spices and the rice mix, and a wonderful cranberry and almond nut mix for salad- or anything.  Of course, I purchase the salt and pepper, but that seems so superfluous after the heavenly smells wafting from her store front. 

We wander along and find the nut and dried fruit shop Reyna loved so much-  there are several, but she had a favorite and we find him;  purchasing salted peanuts unlike any we can find anywhere, and pistachio and sunflower seeds the size of quarters. And we buy apricots, but he also says dried papaya and pears, peaches and kiwi.  We try to talk with him, but, his English is so limited and our Hebrew shamefully limited.  We will bring Reyna back as soon as she gets to town. 

He does understand that we want to eat lunch and we ask him where he recommends to go. I know you think we drift from meal to meal,  well, its true. we were looking for good Mediterranean food.

He told us about a lunch place- HaShovavim.  we located it- packed with people and we had to wait.  In Israel- in the middle east- all meals are preceded by salads- tahini and hummus, and salads of all kinds and they arrive in little plates.

These salads are just the starters.  This restaurant, being in the Greek neighborhood, specializes in shawarma and moussaka.  we will come back with Reyna. 

 

 

 

we decide to come back north along Nachalat Benymin sidestepping the noise of Allenby.  We wander through the Yemenite neighborhood. It is quiet, the houses old and close together.  small gardens and unusual sites.

 

a house- covered on one entire wall with handmade ceramic tiles are too fascinating to pass up without a photo. 

 

 

 



 



we find ourselves at an art fair.  And wander along past the booths.  Some of the artists are really talented, some are getting by.

This woman makes beaded jewelry by embroidering the beads onto fabric.  She has some very lovely things. Another woman hand paints silk. 

 

 

we were in shorts and t-shirts, but she was - like many others, bundled up in coats and boots and gloves! Her work was very lovely. 

 

All along Nahalat Benyamin, were fabric stores.  Clearly we were in a particular district because for at least 7 or more blocks all the shops sold fabric and sewing supplies.  One could go spend days just going through the fabric stores.  each one seemed to specialize in some different kind of fabric.

 

we wended our way home; and rather than fall asleep, decided to walk further and spend some time at the beach.  But, even though the weather was U.P. Summer warm/cool, we found the beach to be chilly.  We find a little menorah to light Chanukah candles and it is first night... 

 

A wonderful day.